1. Prune early in the life of the tree so pruning wounds are small and so growth goes where most desirable.
2. Begin a visual inspection at the top of the tree and work downward.
3. Identify the best leader and lateral branches (scaffold limbs) before pruning begins and remove defective parts before pruning them.
4. Don't worry about protecting pruning cuts. For aesthetics, paint larger wounds with orange shelas or a neutral color tree paint, but the evidence is that it. does not prevent or reduce decay.
5. Keep tools sharp. One-handed pruning shears with curved blades work best on young trees. Do not use an "anvil type" pruner.
6. Make safety a Number 1 priority. For high branches, use a pole pruner. Some have both saw and loper on the same tool. A major job on a big tree should be done by a professional arborist. Urban ForesTree Keepers should not prune any limbs that cannot be reached from the ground. If climbing is required, hire a professional.
7. No flush cuts. When pruning back to the trunk of a larger limb branches too small to have formed a collar (swollen area at base should be cut close. Otherwise, follow the rules of good pruning of larger limbs by cutting just outside the branch ridge and collar and at slight down-and-outward angle (so as not to injure the collar). Do, not leave a protruding stub.
8. Consider the direction of future growth. When simply shortening small branch, make the cut at a lateral bud or another lateral branch. Favor a bud that will produce a branch that will grow in a desired direction. The cut should be sharp and clean, and made at a slight angle about 1/4 inch beyond the branch bud.
9. Finish all cuts…never leave a partial cut. The purpose of the first cut is to ensure that when the second cut is completed, the bark does not “tear” down the remaining branch. The third cut finishes the job.
   

When to Prune
When to prune depends to a large extent on why to prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can be done anytime. Recognizing that individual species may differ, here are some guidelines for pruning jobs.

Winter - Pruning during dormancy is the most common practice. It results in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired effect. It is usually best to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed. Some species, such as maples and walnuts, may "bleed" when the say begins to flow. This is not harmful and will cease when the tree leafs out.

Summer - To direct the growth by slowing the branches you don't want or to slow or “dwarf” the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal growth is complete. Reducing the total leaf surface, and thereby the amount of food manufactured and sent to the roots for their development and next year's growth of the crown, causes this slowing effect. Summer pruning is useful for corrective purposes because defective limbs and limbs that hang down too far under the weight of leaves can be seen more easily.

Fall - Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and healing of wounds seems to be slower on fall cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage.

Flowering Trees - If your purpose for pruning is to enhance flowering:

1. For trees or shrubs that bloom in summer or fall on current year's growth (e.g., crepe myrtle), prune in winter.
2. For trees that bloom in spring from buds on one-year old wood (e.g., dogwood, and flowering fruit trees), prune when their flowers fade.

How To Prune
Inspect the tree first and determine what needs to be pruned. Some examples of limbs which should be removed include the following: crowded, rubbing and narrow branch angles, double leaders, root suckers and water sprouts. When removing these branches, always prune back to the main trunk or the next largest branch being careful not to prune into the branch collar nor leave a pronounced stub. The branch collar is the swelled area near the base of the limb. Always make a clean cut to accelerate wound closure. Wound dressings do not prevent rot. Lopping shears should be used on branches smaller than 3/4" in diameter. To avoid peeling bark, remove larger branches with a saw utilizing the 3 cut method. Incorrect pruning methods can cause costly problems. Discuss the maintenance of your trees with an arborist. When hiring a tree care company, seek out professionals who can provide references and proof of insurance.

Three-Cut Method